Mushrooms in skincare are extracts taken from the fruiting body or the mycelium of a fungus and added to cosmetic formulas for what they carry: water-binding polysaccharides, beta-glucans, antioxidant phenolic compounds and, in some species, lipids such as ceramides. Applied topically, these compounds may help skin feel more hydrated, look calmer and be better supported against everyday environmental stress. They are cosmetic ingredients, not medicines, and the research behind them ranges from strong to early. This guide walks through six mushrooms used in skincare, what each one contributes and how to read the evidence realistically.
What mushroom-derived skincare actually means
A mushroom is two organisms in one. Above ground is the fruiting body, the part we eat. Below ground is the mycelium, a network of fine threads that absorbs nutrients, breaks down damage and defends the fungus from its environment. Both parts can be extracted for cosmetics, and both are rich in the large sugar molecules and antioxidants that formulators value.
A peer-reviewed overview of mushroom extracts and compounds in cosmetics, published in Industrial Crops and Products, notes that mushroom extracts and their metabolites have shown activity against tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, collagenase and elastase in laboratory settings, along with antioxidant and antimicrobial potential. In plain language, that means mushroom compounds can, in a test tube, interfere with the enzymes that break down skin-supporting molecules or drive pigment production.
The important caveat is where that evidence comes from. Most of it is laboratory work on isolated extracts. A smaller body of research tests finished creams on people. And a great deal of what is written about "medicinal mushrooms" comes from oral supplement studies, which say nothing about what happens when an extract sits on the skin. Keeping those three categories separate is the single most useful habit when reading about mushrooms in skincare.
The six mushrooms, one at a time
The six species below are the ones HAOMA uses across its Mycelium collection. Each is described by its notable compounds and its plausible cosmetic role, with the level of evidence noted.
Shiitake (Lentinula edodes)
Shiitake is one of the most studied edible mushrooms and among the most common in cosmetics. Its extracts contain kojic acid, a compound long used in skincare for its ability to inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production, along with phenolic acids and beta-glucans.
In a study of mushroom-based cosmeceutical formulations published in Molecules, researchers incorporated shiitake and oyster mushroom ethanolic extracts into a base cream and confirmed that the finished formulas retained antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activity in the lab. That is promising for shiitake skincare aimed at a more even-looking tone, though results in a beaker are not the same as results on a face. HAOMA describes shiitake in its collection as the brightening and resurfacing mushroom.
Tremella (Tremella fuciformis)
Tremella, sometimes called snow mushroom or silver ear, is the hydration specialist. Its main active is an acidic polysaccharide that holds many times its weight in water, which is why tremella mushroom skincare is so often compared to hyaluronic acid.
The comparison is a useful shorthand, not a scientific equivalence. A review of tremella polysaccharide research in Frontiers in Pharmacology explains that the molecule is built from xylose, mannose and glucuronic acid, a different structure from hyaluronic acid, and that it is used in the cosmetics industry as a moisturizing additive. In practice, tremella polysaccharide may help skin feel plumper and more comfortable by drawing in and holding surface moisture. HAOMA lists tremella in its Cleansing Gel, Gel Mask and Mycelium Eye Cream.
Oyster (Pleurotus ostreatus)
Oyster mushroom extracts are rich in phenolic acids and beta-glucans, and HAOMA highlights oyster as a natural source of ceramides, the lipids that help hold the skin barrier together. In the Molecules study above, the oyster mushroom extract carried the highest phenolic acid content of the three species tested and remained active once formulated into a cream.
The cosmetic case for oyster mushroom skincare is barrier support: helping skin feel less tight and more resilient against wind, cold and dry indoor air. Whether the ceramides in a mushroom extract behave like the ceramides in a dedicated barrier serum has not been established in published human trials, so it is fair to describe oyster as supportive rather than proven.
Mesima (Phellinus linteus)
Mesima is a woody, shelf-like mushroom that grows on mulberry trees and has a long history in East Asian herbal traditions. It is known for a dense concentration of polysaccharides and phenolic antioxidants, and HAOMA positions it as the antioxidant defense mushroom in the collection.
Here the evidence gap is worth naming. Most published work on mesima concerns oral extracts and cell-culture studies, not topical cosmetics. What can reasonably be said is that antioxidant-rich extracts, applied to skin, may help neutralize some of the free radicals generated by UV and pollution exposure, which over time contribute to the appearance of premature aging. That is a plausible cosmetic function, not a demonstrated clinical outcome.
Maitake (Grifola frondosa)
Maitake, or hen-of-the-woods, is dense with beta-glucans. The cosmetics review cited earlier names Grifola frondosa among the mushroom species widely used in cosmeceutical products, and a separate review of beta-glucan and skin health in Phytotherapy Research summarizes laboratory and early clinical findings suggesting beta-glucans from fungi and cereals have moisturizing, antioxidant and skin-soothing potential when applied topically.
Beta-glucans are large molecules, so how much penetrates the skin is still debated. Their most reliable cosmetic role may be at the surface: forming a light, water-attracting film that helps skin feel softer and calmer. HAOMA describes maitake as the free-radical fighter that soothes stressed skin.
Turkey tail (Trametes versicolor)
Turkey tail is easily recognized by its banded, fan-shaped caps and is one of the most researched mushrooms in the world, almost entirely as an oral supplement. Its signature compounds are polysaccharide-protein complexes.
For turkey tail skincare, honesty matters: topical evidence is limited. What transfers plausibly is the polysaccharide profile, which behaves like other mushroom sugars on the skin, helping it hold water and feel more comfortable. HAOMA frames turkey tail as the repair and resilience mushroom, a description best read as a formulation intention rather than a claim backed by human trials.
Reading the evidence: lab, oral and topical
|
Evidence type |
What it tells you |
What it does not tell you |
|
Laboratory (in vitro) |
Whether an extract has antioxidant or enzyme-inhibiting activity |
Whether that activity survives a formula and reaches skin |
|
Oral supplement studies |
Effects when a mushroom is eaten or taken as a capsule |
Anything about topical use |
|
Topical cosmetic studies |
How a finished product performs on skin |
Results for a different formula at a different concentration |
A responsible reading of mushroom skincare benefits leans on the third row wherever possible, treats the first row as promising and sets the second row aside entirely.
Why combine several mushrooms in one routine
No single mushroom does everything. Tremella brings water, oyster brings lipids, shiitake brings kojic acid, and mesima, maitake and turkey tail bring overlapping antioxidant and polysaccharide support. Used together in a well-built formula, the extracts may complement one another: humectants hold moisture, barrier lipids help keep it in place and antioxidants help protect the surface from daily wear.
That is the logic behind HAOMA's Mycelium collection, which includes all six mushrooms in each of its three products: the Cleansing Gel for morning and evening, the Gel Mask for two or three applications a week, and the Mycelium Eye Cream. The collection is CBD-free and made without sulfates or fragrance oils, and every formula also carries the Spiritus Vitae complex, HAOMA's base blend of botanicals such as aloe, chamomile, calendula and sodium hyaluronate. The full glossary is on the ingredients page.
Mushroom extracts also layer easily with other collections. Because the Mycelium line contains no CBD, it can be used alongside HAOMA's Cannabidiol products without doubling up on any one active.
Who may enjoy mushroom skincare, and who should patch test
Mushroom skincare tends to suit people whose skin feels dry, tight, dull or easily reactive, and anyone who prefers plant-based formulas with a gentle, low-foam feel. HAOMA formulated its Mycelium collection specifically for sensitive, reactive and stressed skin, and its FAQ notes that its products are designed for all skin types and ages.
A few groups should take extra care:
• People with known mushroom or mold sensitivities, who should patch test before use
• Anyone whose skin is currently irritated, broken or peeling
• Those combining new products with retinoids or prescription topicals, who should check with a healthcare professional first
Patch testing is simple: apply a small amount to the inner arm or behind the ear once or twice daily for a week to ten days. If redness, itching or swelling develops, stop using the product. Persistent, painful or rapidly worsening reactions deserve a visit to a qualified dermatologist. And if you are pregnant or nursing, HAOMA's own guidance is to consult your healthcare provider before adding any product to your routine.
Conclusion
Mushrooms in skincare are neither a fad nor a miracle. Shiitake, tremella, oyster, mesima, maitake and turkey tail each contribute a distinct set of compounds, from kojic acid and water-binding polysaccharides to ceramides, beta-glucans and antioxidant phenolics, and laboratory research gives a reasonable basis for their cosmetic use. The evidence is strongest for hydration and antioxidant support, thinner for species studied mainly as supplements, and always specific to the formula in the jar. Read claims with that in mind, patch test new products and let your skin's response be the final word.
If you would like to see how six mushrooms work together in a single, gentle routine, explore the Mycelium collection and begin with the Cleansing Gel.
3. FAQ SECTION
Are mushrooms in skincare the same as taking mushroom supplements?
No. Oral supplements are absorbed through digestion and studied for different outcomes. Topical mushroom extracts act on the skin's surface, and their evidence must come from cosmetic or dermatological studies, not supplement research.
Is tremella really a plant-based hyaluronic acid?
Tremella polysaccharide is a strong humectant that holds a great deal of water, which is why the comparison is common. Chemically, it is a different molecule from hyaluronic acid, so think of it as a comparable moisturizing role rather than an identical ingredient.
Can mushroom skincare cause a reaction?
Any cosmetic ingredient can. People with known mushroom or mold sensitivities should patch test on the inner arm for a week to ten days before facial use, and stop if redness, itching or swelling appears.
Which HAOMA products contain all six mushrooms?
The Cleansing Gel, Gel Mask and Mycelium Eye Cream in the Mycelium collection each contain shiitake, tremella, oyster, mesima, maitake and turkey tail alongside the Spiritus Vitae complex.
Can I use mushroom skincare with retinol or vitamin C?
Generally yes, since mushroom extracts are hydrating and antioxidant rather than exfoliating. If you use prescription retinoids or other medicated topicals, check with a healthcare professional before adding new products.
Does the Mycelium collection contain CBD?
No. It is HAOMA's CBD-free collection, which is why it pairs easily with the brand's Cannabidiol products for people who want both.